Walk among the ruins of abandoned Hushpuckena, Mississippi with fine art photographer Keith Dotson
In this video, we walk the ruins of abandoned Hushpuckena, in the Mississippi Delta.
Listen to me discuss the history of Hushpuckena in a podcast episode below
Scroll down to see the black and white photographs I shot on this visit.
Hushpuckena is a small community with a collection of abandoned, ruined buildings standing along a dirt road officially called Highway 61, in Bolivar County — not far from Shelby, Mississippi. Highway 61 is an offshoot of the modern Highway 278, which runs deep into the Mississippi Delta. Hushpuckena was once a flag stop on the Illinois Central train line.
Hushpuckena was mentioned in a line from the 1999 song ‘Pony’ by Tom Waits, where he sings, “I walked from Natchez to Hushpuckena …”
There are a couple of old houses, one partially collapsed, and another standing back from the road behind a screen of trees. The partially collapsed house had a post office in front (now collapsed), and living space in the rest of the house.
There are also two adjoined commercial storefronts on the corner of Hwy 61 and 2nd Street. The corner building features a very faded, painted sign that says “R.C. Tibbs & Sons” on one row, and below that, it says what I have interpreted as “Merchants and Planters.” I read references elsewhere calling R.C. Tibbs a merchant and planter, so it seems to fit the barely legible text on the sign.
The 2nd Street wall of the Tibbs building features a large ghost sign — a faded wall ad that has become incomprehensible over time. It may have multiple layers of old signs showing through, making the message more difficult to read. The only part I can decipher are the words “Muscular Aches,” along the bottom.
On the day I visited Hushpuckena, I found the interior of the Tibbs building littered with pieces of the fallen ceiling, a dirty old mattress, and bunch of black, plastic trash bags that had spilled forth their contents, which appeared to be mostly old receipt books and papers from a doctor’s office. I didn’t enter the building, but from what I could see, it appeared the documents were from the 1980s. Everything is dusty, and there’s a lot of evidence of rodents.
A commenter on YouTube said that the R.C. Tibbs store was an ongoing concern through the 1980s. Based on older photographs found online, there used to be a few wooden counters in front of long rows of wooden shelves that lined the walls. The counters are all gone now, but some of the shelves remain, although in poor condition.
The flooring along the back of the store has collapsed. I could hear deep inside the long space the sound of water dripping from the rafters. Just a single, occasional drip.
In addition to the front entrance, there are open doors on both sides of the building. One opens into the building next door, the other opens out into tall grass and weeds along 2nd Avenue.
A rusty old safe on the ground
Just outside that 2nd Avenue door on the side of the Tibbs building rests a rusty old Mosler safe, turned onto its side among the weeds and tall grass. It looks as if someone tried to remove it from the building but couldn’t manage the weight. It tumbled over on its side and there it still lies. It’s one of the old models with a small landscape scene pasted onto the safe door, above the combination dial.
History of the old buildings in Hushpuckena
Robert Clinton Tibbs
The R.C. Tibbs listed on the sign of the old building was Robert Clinton Tibbs (1859-1946), a merchant and planter. Born in Harrisburg, West Virginia, he married an Illinois girl named Susan Norman. They lived in North Dakota for a while, where some of their children were born.
R.C.’s father Eugene Tibbs served in the Confederacy under General Robert E. Lee.
In 1895, at age 37, R.C. Tibbs moved to Hushpuckena, where he operated a mercantile store and worked as a planter. Presumably, his namesake building was raised shortly thereafter, but we can safely say that it did not exist prior to 1895.
Our best clues to R.C.’s activities and interests comes from this obituary on Find-a-Grave, which says this about his life:
“Mr. Tibbs always manifested a commendable interest in civic affairs. He helped build the first school building of Hushpuckena, and served as a member of the county school board, while under President Theodore Roosevelt he served as Postmaster. His religious faith was indicated in his membership in the Baptist Church and throughout his entire life he had ever been true to any cause which he had advocated.”
It’s interesting that R.C. Tibbs is listed as a Baptist, because some of his descendants are listed as Catholics. Regardless of his civic accomplishments, his most visible legacy is his ruined but still standing mercantile store on the dirt road in Hushpuckena — and of course the accomplishments of his descendants, many of whom became educated professionals.
The couple’s children included Clara Murphree of Tunica, Mae Harris of Duncan, Maud Taylor of Hushpuckena, Robert Norman Tibbs, and Eugene Clinton Tibbs, both of Hushpuckena, with eleven grandchildren and three great grandchildren.
Daughter Maud (or Maude) graduated from college and worked as a school teacher in Hushpuckena and did bookkeeping for the “Tibbs store” prior to her marriage in 1916.
R.C. Tibbs died in 1946 at age 87 after four years of illness. He is buried at Shelby Cemetery.
Photographs of R.C. Tibbs and his wife Susan can be seen on Find a Grave here.
Doctors in the family
R.C.’s son Eugene Clinton Tibbs (1904 – 1969), and grandsons Eugene Edward Tibbs (1934 – 2008), and Robert C. Tibbs II (1931 – 2005) all became physicians. There are still Tibbs family members serving as doctors in the Cleveland, Mississippi vicinity today.
Here is the Amazon synopsis of This Petty Place, quoted verbatim:
“Often times the history of the Miss. Delta is lost in the effort to make more exciting and glamorize its past. The travail of the ordinary working classes, the plebeians and lower elements, who exerted most of the physical toil and sweat and anguish of clearing this land, draining its forbidding mosquito swamps, saving it from the raging river, then bringing some aspect of civilization to it, are painted over completely or glossed with an imperfect brush and sometimes left out entirely. These tales are about some of these people. How their ranks are encumbered by long generations of consanguinity, isolation, fear and superstition and how their disposition, character and religion are molded by this. They evoke a closeness and affinity to place and an almost palpable perception of some of their simple pleasures and fears, their cravings and needs and their response to the daily burden and elation of living. THIS PETTY PACE is the tale of the author.”
The adjacent building
The building attached to Tibbs Store is more mysterious. The only clues I have about it are based on this shipping information stenciled on the ironwork columns that were sent from the manufacturer in Memphis. The company name appears to be Mott & Ward, although the first letter in “Mott” may not be an M.
Perhaps a reader or someone from Hushpuckena will be able to provide information about this place.
While the Tibbs Mercantile building still has a roof and walls and remains somewhat intact, the building next door — I’ll call it the Mott and Ward building (for lack of a better name) — is wide open. The roof is long gone, and the floor resembles an unkempt garden, filled with greenery and dead leaves.
The front doors and window glass are all gone. Some of the plaster on the adjoining wall has fallen away revealing vividly colored paint, but not enough to make out the design. This makes me think that the Mott and Ward building was constructed later than the Tibbs building, and the construction covered what was once an ad or sign on an exterior wall.
The post office someone lived in
The old house with the collapsed front was a private home with a post office in the front. The postmaster lived in the house for decades. I’ve gathered these facts from people who lived in Hushpuckena or had relatives there, based on their comments on photos found in various places online.
Updated information: After publishing this blog post, I received a message from a reader who said her father’s maternal grandfather was the postmaster in Hushpuckena. His name was Max Feibelman. Max was born in Bavaria and emigrated to the US at about age 18.
Max had a son and daughter, both of whom were born in Memphis, even though the family was over an hour away. The reader was unsure how her great-grandfather, Max Feibelman, ended up in the Mississippi Delta, but she said that he moved to Memphis in the 1930s.
She was informed by a cousin that Max had worked as a bookkeeper on a plantation in the region during the 1910s, before becoming the postmaster. We can assume that Max Feibelman and his family lived and worked in this house for a while.
The reader said her father — Max’s grandson — remembered driving to Hushpuckena in about 1948, and he said there wasn’t much to the town even then.
My sincere thanks to the reader for generously taking the time to supply this new information. I love getting more information from people with direct knowledge of the people and places.
Black and white photographs of the ruins at Hushpuckena
Fine art prints are available. Click the photograph to go to my e-commerce page and learn more.
My book about abandoned places
If you’re fascinated by abandoned places, you may enjoy my book Unloved and Forgotten: Fine Art Photographs of Abandoned Places
Thanks for reading.
Find a Grave: Robert Clinton Tibbs
Find a Grave: Susan Minerva Norman Tibbs
Find a Grave: Eugene Edward Tibbs
Legacy.com: Dr. Eugene Edward Tibbs
Suzassippi’s Lottabusha County Chronicles: Hushpuckena on old highway 61
Urban Decay: “The Mississippi Delta 9: Hushpuckena and Shelby”
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